Amigurumi Frog Trinket Bowl Crochet Pattern

This crochet frog trinket bowl is a fun and functional amigurumi project designed to look like a frog with an open mouth. The bowl shape makes it perfect for holding small items such as rings, stitch markers, hair ties, keys, and other tiny treasures, while the playful frog details add plenty of personality!

The pattern features a sturdy, double-lined crochet bowl with a green exterior and a red interior, mimicking a frog's mouth. Arms, legs, and eyes are then attached to the outside of the bowl. The eye placement can be adjusted to give the frog different fun expressions.

Whether you're making this as a handmade gift, a desk organizer, or a cute piece of home decor, this frog trinket bowl is an enjoyable project that's both practical and charming.

Table of Contents

What You Need / Materials

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Light worsted (weight #3) cotton yarn, shown in Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8 (100% cotton; 82 yards / 75 m per 1.76 oz. / 50 g skein) in the following colors:

Green (I used 2x Shamrock #104)
Red (I used 1x Tomato #40)
White (I used White #01)

3.25 mm crochet hook
12 mm safety eyes
Polyester stuffing of your choice
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
Scissors

Finished Size

Finished amigurumi measures approximately 13.5 cm (5.3 inches) tall and 17 cm (6.7 inches) wide.

Level of Difficulty

★★★☆☆ Intermediate / Advanced
Requires familiarity with stitches used (below), attaching plastic safety eyes, changing yarn colors, and basic sewing skills.

Stitches & Abbreviations

st/sts - stitch/stitches
ch - chain
slst - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
sc-inc - single crochet increase, 2 single crochets in one stitch
sc-dec - single crochet decrease, single crochet 2 stitches together
hdc - half double crochet
FLO - front loops only
BLO - back loops only

Crochet Frog Amigurumi Trinket Bowl Pattern

Pattern Notes

This pattern is written using US crochet terms.
Complete the pieces in the specified order to ensure proper assembly later.
Use the yarn under single crochet technique to achieve tighter, more aligned stitches.
Learn how to seamlessly change color in crochet mid-row or round to create clean color transitions.
Crochet in continuous spiral rounds. Do not join at the end of each round unless otherwise stated.
Use a running stitch marker to keep your place when crocheting in rounds.
Use the ultimate finish to neatly close up your amigurumi pieces.
Use the invisible fasten-off method to create a smooth, knot-free edge that blends perfectly with your stitches.
Optional: Use the invisible decrease to enhance the appearance of your amigurumi.
The mouth (or bowl) is double-lined, which means you'll crochet both the outer layer and the inner layer as part of the same piece. This creates a sturdier bowl that can actually hold small items.

Free Crochet Pattern

Head/Body

Using a 3.25 mm crochet hook in green yarn...
Round 1: Magic Circle with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: Sc-inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc, sc-inc] x 6 times (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc, sc-inc, sc] x 6 times (24 sts)

Round 5: [3 sc, sc-inc] x 6 times (30 sts)
Round 6: [2 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc] x 6 times (36 sts)
Round 7: [5 sc, sc-inc] x 6 times (42 sts)
Round 8: [3 sc, sc-inc, 3 sc] x 6 times (48 sts)

Round 9: [7 sc, sc-inc] x 6 times (54 sts)
Round 10: [4 sc, sc-inc, 4 sc] x 6 times (60 sts)
Round 11: [9 sc, sc-inc] x 6 times (66 sts)
Round 12: [5 sc, sc-inc, 5 sc] x 6 times (72 sts)
Round 13-23: Sc in each st around (72 sts x 11 rounds)

Round 24: [7 sc, sc-dec] x 8 times (64 sts)
Round 25: [3 sc, sc-dec, 3 sc] x 8 times (56 sts)
Round 26: [5 sc, sc-dec] x 8 times (48 sts)
Round 27-29: Sc in each st around (48 sts x 3 rounds)

Cut yarn. Continue to crochet in the round for the mouth.

Mouth

Change to red yarn...
Round 30: Working in the BLO, slst in each st around (48 sts)
Round 31: Working in the BLO of the slsts in Round 30, [5 sc, sc-inc] x 8 times (56 sts)

Round 32: [7 sc, sc-inc] x 7 times (63 sts)
Round 33: [4 sc, sc-inc, 4 sc] x 7 times (70 sts)

Round 34-42: Sc in each st around (70 sts x 9 rounds)
Round 43: [6 sc, sc-dec, 6 sc] x 5 times (65 sts)
Round 44: [11 sc, sc-dec] x 5 times (60 sts)

Round 45: [4 sc, sc-dec, 4 sc] x 6 times (54 sts)
Round 46: [7 sc, sc-dec] x 6 times (48 sts)
Round 47: [3 sc, sc-dec, 3 sc] x 6 times (42 sts)
Round 48: [5 sc, sc-dec] x 6 times (36)

Round 49: [2 sc, sc-dec, 2 sc] x 6 times (30 sts)
Round 50: [3 sc, sc-dec] x 6 times (24 sts)
Round 51: [Sc, sc-dec, sc] x 6 times (18 sts)
Round 52: [Sc, sc-dec] x 6 times (12 sts)

Cut and fasten off using the ultimate finish.

The red side is going to be inside the mouth.

Tuck the red side into the green side.

Smooth out all the wrinkles inside...

... to create a bowl shape.

Arms (make 2)

Using a 3.25 mm crochet hook with green yarn...
Round 1: Magic ring with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2-3: Sc in each st around (6)
Cut and fasten off with an invisible finish.

Crochet two more fingers the same way. When finishing the last finger, DO NOT cut the yarn. Keep crocheting the arm.

Round 4: Join the three fingers together as follows. Continue working on the 3rd finger, 3 sc, now on the 2nd finger, 3 sc, then work on the 1st finger, 6 sc around, then work on the unworked sts of the 2nd finger, 3 sc, and finally the unworked sts of the 3rd finger, 3 sc (18 sts)

Step 1. Working on the 3rd finger — 3 sc.

Step 2. Then on the 2nd finger — 3 sc.

Step 3. Then work on the 1st finger — 6 sc around.

Step 4. Crochet on the 2nd finger again — 3 sc on the unworked sts. Then crochet on the 3rd finger — 3 sc on the unworked sts.

Round 5: [Sc, sc-dec] x 6 times (12 sts)
Round 6: [Sc, sc-dec] x 4 times (8 sts)
Round 7: Stuff lightly. Flatten the edges and 4 sc through both sides, closing the hole (you may have to add 1-2 sc to the round to make the seam parallel to the hand)
Cut and fasten off. Leave a tail to sew onto the frog.

Flatten the edges and sc through both sides.

Make the seam parallel to the hand.

Legs (make 2)

Using a 3.25 mm crochet hook with green yarn...
Round 1: Magic ring with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: [2 sc, sc-inc] x 2 times (8 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st around (8 sts)
Round 4: [2 sc, sc-dec] x 2 times (6 sts)
Round 5: Sc in each st around (6 sts)
Cut and fasten off with an invisible finish.

Crochet two more toes in the same way. When finishing the last toe, DO NOT cut the yarn. Keep crocheting the leg.

Round 6: Join the three toes together as follows. Continue working on the 3rd toe — 3 sc, now on the 2nd toe — 3 sc, then work on the 1st toe — 6 sc around, then work on the unworked sts of the 2nd toe — 3 sc, and finally the unworked sts of the 3rd toe — 3 sc (18 sts)

Step 1. Working on the 3rd toe — 3 sc. Then on the 2nd toe — 3 sc.

Step 2. Then work on the 1st toe — 6 sc around.

Step 3. Crochet on the 2nd toe again —3 sc on the unworked sts.

Step 4. Crochet on the 3rd toe — 3 sc on the unworked sts.

Round 7: [2 sc, sc-dec, 2 sc] x 3 times (15 sts)
Round 8: [3 sc, sc-dec] x 3 times (12 sts)
Round 9: Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 10: [Sc, sc-dec] x 4 times (8 sts)
Round 11: Flatten the edges and 4 sc through both sides, closing the hole (you may have to add 1-2 sc to the round to make the seam parallel to the feet)

Flatten the opening.

Sc through both sides.

Round 12: Turn, 4 sc FLO. Turn, 4 sc BLO (8 sts)
Round 13-14: Sc in each st around (8 sts x 2 rounds)
Round 15: [3 sc, sc-inc] x 2 times (10 sts)
Round 16: Sc in each st around (10 sts)

Round 17: [2 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc] x 2 times (12 sts)
Round 18-20: Sc in each st around (12 sts x 3 rounds)
Round 21: [Sc, sc-dec] x 4 times (8 sts)
Round 22: Sc in each st around (8 sts)
Round 23: Flatten the edges, 4 sc through both sides, closing the hole (you may have to add 1-2 sc to the round to make the seam parallel to the feet)

Both seams (ankle and knee) should be parallel to the foot.

Round 24: Turn, 4 sc FLO. Turn, 4 sc BLO (8 sts)
Round 25: [3 sc, sc-inc] x 2 times (10 sts)
Round 26: Sc in each st around (10 sts)
Round 27: [2 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc] x 2 times (12 sts)
Round 28: [5 sc, sc-inc] x 2 times (14 sts)

Round 29-33: Sc in each st around (14 sts x 5 rounds)
Round 34: [5 sc, sc-dec] x 2 times (12 sts)
Round 35: [2 sc, sc-dec, 2 sc] x 2 times (10 sts)
Round 36: Sc in each st around (10 sts)
Round 37: Flatten the edges, 5 sc through both sides, closing the hole (you may or may not have to add 1-2 sc to the round to make the seam perpendicular to the feet)
Cut and fasten off. Leave a long tail to sew it to the side of the frog.

The last seam (hip) needs to be perpendicular to the foot.

The first two seams can act as joints.

Eyes (make 2)

Using a 3.25 mm crochet hook and white yarn...
Round 1: Magic ring with a base of 6 sc (6sts)
Round 2: Sc-inc in each st around (12sts)
Round 3: [Sc, sc-inc] x 6 times (18sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around (18 sts)

Change to green yarn...
Round 5: Slst BLO in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, hdc FLO in each st around, slst to the first st (18sts).
Fold it over the eyeball so the underside of the stitches will be showing on the outside.

Round 5: Slst BLO in each st around.

Round 6: Hdc FLO in each st around.

Fold it over the eyeball so the underside of the stitches will be showing on the outside.

Round 7: Sc BLO of Round 5 in each st around

Round 7: Ch 2, sc BLO of Round 5 in each st around (18 sts)
Round 8-9: Sc in each st around (18 sts x 2 rounds)

Insert the safety eye into the magic ring. Stuff the amigurumi with polyester stuffing as you decrease.

Round 10: [Sc, sc-dec] x 6 times (12 sts)
Round 11: Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 12: Flatten the edges, 6 sc through both sides, closing the hole (6 sts)
Cut and fasten off with yarn tail to sew to the body.

Assembly

Turn the crochet bowl onto its side so the opening faces forward. This will be the frog's open mouth.

Pin the arms to the bottom of the bowl.

Pin the legs on the back and the ankles closer to the bottom of the bowl.

Pin the eyes to the top of the bowl.

Before sewing anything in place, set the bowl down on a flat surface and make sure it sits balanced and upright.

Have fun playing with the eye placements! Small adjustments can give your frog a totally different personality.

Frog eyes placed straight ahead create a classic look.

Frog eyes looking inward give it a cute and curious expression.

Frog eyes looking outward give it a derpy look.

Once you're happy with the overall positioning and balance, sew all pieces securely into place.

Sewing note: The bowl is double-lined, with a green exterior and red interior. When sewing the eyes, arms, and legs, stitch through the green outer layer only. Avoid piercing the red inner layer so yarn ends do not show inside the mouth.

Inspiration Behind the Crochet Design

This crochet frog trinket bowl actually started from an earlier design I haven't shared yet. I've been quietly exploring the idea of turning amigurumi into functional projects. I love that original piece just as much, but this frog felt like the right one to introduce the concept.

Amigurumi Frog Trinket Bowl FREE Crochet Pattern

When I began sketching out the concept, frogs felt like the obvious choice. They have big mouths, which naturally translate beautifully into a bowl shape. It allowed the mouth itself to become the functional element instead of feeling like soemthing added on afterward. The more I worked on it the more personality it started to develop.

Crochet Frog Trinket Bowl FREE Amigurumi Pattern

As I worked on the details, especially the round eyes, the frog started to take on a personality of its own. Those oversized rounded eyes give it a slightly whimsical look that reminded me of something you might see on Sesame Street or The Muppet Show. That wasn't the original plan, but once I saw it, I couldln't unsee it and it made me love this crochet project even more.

Frog trinket bowls aren't entirely new. They exist mostly as pottery pieces, but I wanted to see what the idea could look like in yarn form. This design blends amigurumi techniques with practical function in a way that feels thoughtful and special, and I'm really proud of how it came togehter.

Creative Uses and Ideas

Desk Organizer: Store pens, pencils, paperclips, or sticky notes.
Yarn & Crochet Supplies: Keep stitch markers, small yarn scraps, or crochet hooks handy.
Jewelry Holder: Perfect for rings, earrings, bracelets, or watches.
Mini Toy Catch-All: Keep tiny toys, action figures, or collectibles organized.
Snack Bowl: Use for wrapped candies or other small (dry and wrapped) snacks.
Entryway Catch-All: Keep keys, coins, and lip balm in one cute spot.
Gift Idea: Fill it with treats or goodies as a fun, handmade gift for a friend or gamer.
Display Piece: Simply show it off on a shelf. It's too cute not to!

Share Your Creation with Me!

Did you make this project? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.

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This is an original crochet pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this crochet pattern as your own. If you wish to share this crochet pattern, you may link to this blog post, but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for personal use, but please DO NOT sell or distribute the crochet pattern.

Disclaimer: We are not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by, or in any way officially connected with Kirby, Nintendo, or any related entity. Kirby and related names, likenesses, and brands are trademarks or intellectual property of their respective owners. Please reserve this crochet pattern and the finished product for personal use ONLY.

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