My original inspiration for this project was Aurora's comfy princess look from Wreck-it-Ralph 2: Ralph Breaks the Internet. I tried to use the same colours for the stripes as Aurora's nap queen PJs.



However, I can't help but notice the fact that the colours are so similar to the stripes on the Cheshire Cat from the original Disney's Alice in Wonderland (1951). Hence, the name "Cheshire Dreams".
Designing this sweater took a lot longer than I thought. I could have taken the easy route and made all the pieces separately and then sew them up, but I was looking for a method that would give me the perfect stripes. Also, I love the fact that raglan sweaters don't require much (if any) sewing. In fact, the sleeves are crocheted right from the armholes of the sweater itself.

Unfortunately, designing this raglan sweater was so much more challenging than I'd ever imagined. I can't even begin to count the number of times I've frogged this thing to start over again.

The sweater is worked from the top-down, and I wanted a similar boat neck-line as the one Aurora is wearing and needed it to sit perfectly on the shoulders.




And then, of course, you can always make it your own. The collar is wide enough for you to wear it off the shoulder on one side!

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

• DK Worsted Weight Yarn in two colours (I used up a bunch of mills ends yarn that I bought last year and not sure what brand they are, so gu-estimate approximately 1000 yards of fuchsia and 800 yards of pink)
• 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors

Notes

• This sweater is worked from the neckline down.
• The sleeves are crocheted right on to the sweater, so there's no sewing required
• I worked in the back bumps of the beginning chain, it just makes for a nicer finish.
• Gauge: 14 dc stitches x 8 rows = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)
• The great thing about raglan sweaters that are worked top down is that you can try it on as you work on it!
• If you prefer your sweater to be longer/shorter, you can choose to do more/fewer rows
• I changed colour ever 6 rows for the stripes, but you can alter this depending on how wide you want your stripes to be
• For reference, I'm usually a size small, so when laid flat, my finished sweater measures 18" wide at the body and 24" long from shoulder to hips. The sleeves measure 22" long from the neckline to the wrist.
• Sizes in the pattern will be in small, medium, large, and X-Large in parenthesis. For example, S (M, L, XL). This is my first time writing multiple size patterns using some math based on the gauge. It may contain some errors as this pattern has not been formally tested.
• For sizing information, please see Craft Yarn Council's women's size chart.

Stitches & Abbreviations

• st/sts - stitch/stitches
• ch - chain
• ch-sp - chain space
• slst - slip stitch
• dc - double crochet
• dc dec - double crochet decrease, double crochet 2 stitches together

Pattern

Ch 100 (108, 116, 124), slst to the first ch to make a loop (make sure your chain is not twisted)
Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as st), 13 (14, 15, 16) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 22 (24, 26, 28) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 26 (28, 30, 32) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 22 (24, 26, 28) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 13 (14, 15, 16) dc, slst join (total of 104 (112, 120, 128) sts + 4 ch-sp)
Round 2: Ch 2, *dc in each st to the next ch-sp, [dc, ch, dc] into the ch-sp*, repeat x 4 times, dc in each st until the end of the round, slst join (total of 112 (120, 128, 136) sts + 4 ch-sp)
Round 3-12: Repeat round 2 (each round will contain 4 ch-sp and the number of sts will increase by 8 dc per round, so by round 12, you should have a total of 192 (200, 208, 216) sts + 4 ch-sp)

For M: Repeat round 2, (x1) (by round 13, you should have a total of 208 sts + 4 ch-sp)
For L: Repeat round 2, (x2) (by round 14, you should have a total of 224 sts + 4 ch-sp)
For XL: Repeat round 2, (x3) (by round 15, you should have a total of 240 sts + 4 ch-sp)

Shaping the armholes and then the rest of the body...

Round 1: Ch 2, *dc into each st until the next ch-sp, dc into the ch-sp, ch 10 (13, 16, 19), skip 46 (50, 54, 58) sts, dc into the next ch-sp*, repeat x 2, dc into each st, slst join (total of 104 (112, 120, 128) sts + 20 (26, 32, 38) ch)
Round 2: Ch 2, dc into each st around, slst join (total of 124 (138, 152, 166) sts)
Round 3-30: Repeat round 2 (total of 124 (138, 152, 166) sts in each round)

• Sleeves

Round 1: Sc join the yarn to the rightmost chain under the arms (see top left photo), ch 1 (counts as 1 dc), 9 (12, 15, 18) dc, dc dec in the sts indicated in the photo below (this helps to minimize the size of the hole/gap), 44 (48, 52, 56) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 56 (63, 70, 77) sts)



Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), 9 (12, 15, 18) dc, dc dec, 43 (47, 51, 55) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 54 (61, 68, 75) sts)
Round 3: Ch 2,  8 (11, 14, 17) dc, dc dec, 42 (46, 50, 54) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 52 (59, 66, 73) sts)
Round 4: Ch 2,  7 (10, 13, 16) dc, dc dec, 41 (45, 49, 53) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 50 (57, 64, 71) sts)
Round 5: Ch 2,  6 (9, 12, 15) dc, dc dec, 40 (44, 48, 52) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 48 (55, 62, 69) sts)
Round 6: Ch 2,  5 (8, 11, 14) dc, dc dec, 39 (43, 47, 51) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 46 (53, 60, 67) sts)
Round 7-12: Ch 2, dc in each st around (total of 46 (53, 60, 67) sts)
Round 13: Ch 2, dc in each st until the last 2 sts, dc dec in the last 2 sts (total of 45 (52, 59, 66) sts)
Round 14-27: Repeat round 13 (total number of sts decreases by 1 per round)
Round 28-30: Ch 2, dc in each st around (total of 31 (38, 45, 52) sts)
Cut and fasten off, weave in the ends



Did you make your own Cheshire Dreams Crochet Sweater? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.






This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

*** Please note that this blog post is the crochet pattern for the crochet pattern for the Candy Heart Pillow. If you are looking for the cross-stitch pattern for adding the letters to these pillows, please click here.

It's still January, but it seems like everyone in the crochet world is getting ready for Valentine's Day already!


These little Valentine's Day treats are well known to many. Even if you've never had one of these candies, you might have seen or heard of them. Especially around Valentine's Day, these sweet treats have become a hallmark of the season. Apparently, they've been around since the early 1900s. Who would have thought! Of course, they've updated their sayings on these confectionaries over the decades to include sayings that are more up to date, so to speak (e.g. "call me", "fax me", "email me", "txt me", etc.).

I had such a hard time choosing what I wanted my pillows to say that I posted a photo of my blank candy heart pillows on Facebook to ask for suggestions! Of course, there are the classic ones like "I love you", "be mine", "hug me", "kiss me", etc. But I wanted something a little more unique. Many people on Facebook started asking me for the pattern for these Candy Heart Pillows, so I figured I better get crackin' and write out the pattern for you can have enough time to make them for Valentine's Day!

Basically, the options for sayings on these candy heart pillows are endless, and that's usually when my "indecisive disorder" starts to kick in. I'll share with you in a later post what I decide to put on my pillows. But here's the crochet pattern for these sweet pillows for now. I would love to know what you decide to put on yours, so don't forget to let me know!! By the way, these pillows measure 12" wide x 10" tall.

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

Stitches & Abbreviations

• st/sts - stitch/stitches
• ch - chain
• sc - single crochet
• sc inc - single crochet increase, work 2 single crochets into the same stitch
• sc dec - single crochet decrease, single crochet 2 stitches together

Notes

• The heart is worked from bottom up
• The finished project measures approximately 12" wide and 10" tall

Pattern

• Heart (x 2)

Row 1: Magic Ring with a base of 2 sc (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc inc (4 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc inc, 2 sc, sc inc (6 sts)
Row 4-25: Ch 1, turn, sc inc, sc in each st across until the second last st, sc inc in the last st (8, 10, 12 sts... etc. until you have 50 sts)

Row 26-30: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (50 sts)
Row 31: Ch 1, turn, sc inc, sc in each st across until the second last st, sc inc in the last st (52 sts)
Row 32-35: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (52 sts)
Row 36: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 48 sc, sc dec (50 sts)
Row 37: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (50 sts)
Row 38: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 46, sc dec (48 sts)
Row 39: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (48 sts)

Now, we'll shape the top of the heart's first "bump". Each bump is separate, so we will only be working the next part up to the middle of the piece.

Row 40: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 20 sc, sc dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked (22 sts)
Row 41: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (22 sts)
Row 42: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 18 sc, sc dec (20 sts)
Row 43: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (20 sts)
Row 44: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 16 sc, sc dec (18 sts)
Row 45: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 14 sc, sc dec (16 sts)
Row 46: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 12 sc, sc dec (14 sts)
Row 47: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 10 sc, sc dec (12 sts)

Cut and fasten off after the first bump.

For the second bump, join your yarn to the first unworked stitch left from row 39 (see photo below) and repeat rows 40-47 without the first "ch 1, turn" step in row 40. Cut and fasten off.

• Edge / Band

Ch 7
Row 1: Turn sc into the second ch from the hook and across (6 sts)
Row 2-132: Ch 1, turn, sc across in each st (6 sts)
Do NOT cut. 

Assembly

Once you finish crocheting the edge of the pillow, DO NOT cut. Continue by single crocheting the long side of the edge/band around one of the heart panels. I started by crocheting from the middle  (between the two heart bumps) and around the heart counter-clockwise so the stitches would look nicer when looking at the heart straight on. Then single crochet the short sides of the edge/band piece together, and continue single crocheting the second heart panel on the other side of the band. Remember to stuff your pillow before closing!




Did you make your own Candy Heart Pillow? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.


You can turn them into the classic Valentine's Candy Heart treats by cross-stitching your very own saying on these candy hearts! Find the cross stitch letters here.

Check out mine below!

I wish I could have shared this post earlier, but I actually created this for my friend who is getting married later this month and I wanted to keep it as a surprise until I gave it to her at her bridal shower. I wanted to create something for her that she could use on her wedding day, but given that the wedding was taking place in the middle of July, it's likely not going to be cold enough that she would need a shawl/wrap/shrug, etc.

She has this beautiful strapless wedding dress with a sweetheart neckline and I doubt that she would want to cover that up. But I figured that she could use something to keep her warm when the night is over and still look beautiful.

When designing this piece, I wanted to make sure that it's simple yet elegant enough for a wedding. I also wanted it to be suitable for the summer if she decides to use it on her special day but versatile enough that she would be able to use down the road if she doesn't get to use it for her wedding. Lots of ideas floating around, you see.

The Midsummer 3-Way Infinity Scarf is a bit longer than what you would normally make for an infinity scarf. A standard infinity scarf is about 60 inches long, but this scarf almost 75 inches long (before you sew the ends together). There's a reason for this as it makes the piece a lot more versatile. Let me show you the ways to wear it:

#1) As a Wrap/Shawl

#2) As an Infinity Scarf (wrapped 2 times)

and #3) As a Cowl (wrapped 3 times)

Seriously though, do you love it? Or do you love it? There really is no other answer. This 3-way infinity is so versatile, and it's likely the easiest pattern I've ever created. A beginner who is just learning how to crochet (and have learned how to do a double crochet) can make this! What are you waiting for? Let's begin!

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

• 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
• 5.5 mm Crochet Hook (read my notes)
• Worsted Weight Yarn
• Satin Ribbon
• Stitch Markers
• Yarn Needle

Stitches & Abbreviations

• st/sts - stitch/stitches
• ch - chain
• dc - double crochet

Notes

• Gauge: 14 dc x 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4" x 4")
• 188 cm (~74") in length before tying the ends together with a ribbon.
• The finished scarf is about 19cm (7.5") wide. If you want it wider, you will have to do more rows.
• I found that when I was working row 3, my stitches were flaring out a bit, so I decided to use a smaller hook (5.5mm) for the rows that only contain double crochets and no chains (odd rows) and continued using 6.0mm for the others. 
• When working the rows with alternating double crochet and chains, I put my stitch into the chain space.
• Sizing:
• Measure yourself by placing the measuring tape at the tip of the shoulder and wrap it all the way around you like a shawl until it meets back at the same shoulder. The tape should skin the top of your shoulders closely, it almost slips off. This is the widest circumference of your shoulders.
• Multiply this number by 2
• 3.5 sts = 1" 
• Example:
• Shoulders measure 40"
• 40" x 2 = 80" (this is how long your scarf needs to be)
• Foundation chain = 80" x (3.5sts) + 2 sts (for turning) = 282 sts 
• This is all assuming that you are basing it on the same gauge as stated above

Pattern

Ch 261
Row 1: Dc into the third loop from the hook and in each st across (259 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc into the first st, [ch 1, skip 1 st, dc into the next st] x 129 times (259 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across (259 sts)
Even Rows: Repeat row 2.
Odd Rows: Repeat row 3.

I worked a total of 17 rows, but you can repeat it until you feel that it's wide enough.

Adding the Ribbon Detail

Isn't this the easiest thing you've ever made?

Did you make your own Midsummer 3-Way Infinity Scarf? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.






This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

I grew up in the era when hoodies were cool. Hoodies are pretty much my go-to items when I just want something to lounge around in. Back in high school, I pretty much lived in my hoodies because I hated putting outfits together and fussing about what to wear. I'm going to confess now that I am no fashionista and that I have no sense of style.


Cows are my spirit animals, but I also have an affinity for bunnies. I loved creating something that defined me, so that's when I came up with this amigurumi bunny wearing a hoodie. I am very proud of this creation. And just so you know, you can take the hood off (like a real hoodie)!


If you are interested in creating your own Amigurumi Bunny in the Hood, keep reading!

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

• Worsted weight yarn in 2 colours (Colour A for the bunny, Colour B for the hoodie)
• 4.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Safety Eyes (I used 6.0 mm)
• Poly-fil or any polyester stuffing of your choice
• Scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations

Pattern

• Head

Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: sc inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc, sc inc] x 6 times (18 sts)
Round 4: [2 sc, sc inc] x 6 times (24 sts)
Round 5: [3 sc, sc inc] x 6 times (30 sts)
Round 6: [4 sc, sc inc] x 6 times (36 sts)
Round 7: [5sc, sc inc] x 6 times (42 sts)
Round 8-14: sc in each st around (42 sts)
Insert the safety eyes between rows 11 and 12
Round 15: [5 sc, sc dec] x 6 times (36 sts)
Round 16: [4 sc, sc dec] x 6 times (30 sts)
Round 17: [3 sc, sc dec] x 6 times (24 sts)
Stuff firmly as you continue to decrease
Round 18: [2 sc, sc dec] x 6 times (18 sts)
Round 19: [sc, sc dec] x 6 times (12 sts)
Fasten off and leave a tail to sew onto the hood

• Ears (x 2)

Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 5 sc (5 sts)
Round 2: sc inc in each st around (10 sts)
Round 3: [sc, sc inc] x 5 times (15 sts)
Round 4-5: sc in each st around (15 sts)
Round 6: [3 sc, sc dec] x 3 times (12 sts)
Round 7: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 8: [2 sc, sc dec] x 3 times (9 sts)
Round 9: sc in each st around (9 sts)
Round 10: [sc, sc dec] x 3 times (6 sts)

At this point, you might want to attach the ears to the head and try measuring to see if the hood fits the bunny. Depending on the thickness of your yarn and the tension, you might have increase or decrease a row between rows 9-12.

• Body

Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 7 sc (7 sts)
Round 2: sc inc in each st around (14 sts)
Round 3: [sc, sc inc] x 7 times (21 sts)
Round 4: [2 sc, sc inc] x 7 times (28 sts)
Round 5: sc in each st around (28 sts)
Change to Colour B...
Round 6: slst in each st around (28 sts)
Round 7: sc in the back loop only of each st around (28 sts)
Round 8-10: sc in each st around (28 sts)
Round 11: [2 sc, sc dec] x 7 times (21 sts)
Round 12: [sc, sc dec] x 7 times (14 sts)
Fasten off and leave a tail to sew onto the hood

• Arms (Make 2)

Using Colour A...
Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: [sc, sc inc] x 3 times (9 sts)
Round 3: sc in each st around (9 sts)
Change to Colour B...
Round 4: slst in each st around (9 sts)
Round 5: sc in the back loop only of each st around (9 sts)
Round 6: [sc, sc dec] x 3 times (6 sts)
Round 7-8: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave a tail to sew onto the body

• Legs (Make 2) and Tail

For the instructions on how to make the legs and tail, I will refer you to All About Ami's Spring Bunny crochet pattern available for free on her blog (here).
Fasten off and leave a tail to sew to the body

After that, you basically have all your pieces ready to go.

Assembly

On the hood, you have two slits, these are for your bunny's ears. To line them up correctly, the ears should sit right on top of the head. I attached it right after the first round (photo 2)


Then, position your bunny's head by placing it inside the hood with the ears through the slits. Make sure that your bunny's eyes are facing outside. Using the long strand that you left on the head, sew bottom of the head to the bottom of the hood (photo 7).

On the bottom of the hood where you sewed the head, you'll see yarn in Colour A but don't worry as this will be hidden once the body is attached.


Next, attach your tail to the body, as well as the arms and legs. And then attach the head along with the hood to the body. If the head and body are attached properly, you should no longer be able to see Colour A yarn on the bottom of the hood. After that, you sew on the details of the bunny's face and then you're done!


And there you have it your very own Bunny in the Hood! Look at that, a family reunion! Click here for the pattern for the classic (and naked) amigurumi bunny pattern.





This is an inspired pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Permission obtained from Stephanie of All About Ami. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

*** Please note that this is the pattern for the Minnie Mouse Sweater. The step-by-step tutorial to assemble the sweater and notes on sizing changes can be found here.

Happy Chinese New Year, everyone! I hope you fill your bellies with good food and your pockets with red envelopes. I am so excited to be sharing this much-anticipated crochet pattern with you all today.


I posted a photo of BB and I wearing our Minnie Mouse sweaters on a few different Facebook groups a few weeks ago and collected more than 1500+ likes and comments! Is this what going viral feels like?! Many people were asking me for the pattern and I wish I could have shared it right at that instant, but I needed some time to put it all together.

Now before I go any further, I want to clarify that I only created the one that *I* am wearing. The one that BB is wearing is actually from GAP Kids. Many people thought I made both of them, but I only made the adult size. Sorry. For those interested, I wrote about the inspiration behind this sweater here when I gave my readers a "sneak peek".

I'll be honest, I've never crocheted a sweater before this. So essentially I had no idea what I was doing. However, I could not be more proud of myself and the end result. Before I took the photos in this post, I had already worn my sweater out in public a few times.



I did a lot of research and examined other crochet designers' sweater patterns before deciding to create my own because I couldn't really find what I was looking for. I wanted a defined silhouette of Minnie Mouse on the sweater, but I have yet to come by a crochet sweater pattern that has an image on it without using appliques. I know I can create graphs/images using single crochet, but I was unsure whether single crochet stitches would make the fabric too stiff. Not to mention that it would take me forever to finish.

I wanted the sweater to be worked up quickly because I have a hard time completing huge projects that take me months to finish. So I decided to use half double crochet (HDC) stitches for this sweater, but there's something about HDC stitches that bothers me. When crocheting HDC in rows the conventional way, it leaves a horizontal ridge, which I wanted to avoid. It's also slightly taller than single crochet stitches which would make the image taller than it is wide -- also something I want to avoid.



So guess what?! I found a new way to work HDCs to avoid both of these problems for this sweater. Most of the stitches on this sweater are HDC stitches that are worked BETWEEN THE POST (i.e. in the space between the stitches). Now I wouldn't use this to replace the conventional way of working HDCs, but it worked fantastically well for this project.


I really like how I was able to use the same stitch for the entire sweater without needing to change it up just for the image/silhouette section. Please note that I am not in any way affiliated with the Walt Disney Company. I am simply a huge fan of their work.




For more photographs of the work in progress and/or notes on how to change the sizing of the sweater, please click here.

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

• Worsted weight yarn in the colours black, light grey, dark grey, red, and white
• 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Stitch Markers
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations

• ch - chain
• sc - single crochet
• sc blo - single crochet in back loops only
• hdc - half double crochet
• Most of the hdc stitches in this pattern are worked into the space between each stitch. I will state in the pattern when we need to work the hdc into the spaces, otherwise, work hdc the conventional way. 
• hdc2tog - half double crochet decrease

Notes

• This sweater is worked from bottom up. 
• The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
• Gauge: 12 sts and 12 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over hdc worked in spaces between stitches using a 6mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Pattern

• Front Panel

Using black yarn... Ch16
Row 1: Sc in second ch from the hook, and then in each st across (15 sts)
Row 2-61: Ch1, turn, sc blo in each st across (15 sts)

At the end of the final row, do not turn. The next row is worked without a turning chain into the side edge of the ribbing we just created, one stitch into each row.

Row 1: Ch1, sc in the same st as the last rib row 61, and then in each st across (61 sts)
Row 2: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61 sts)
Starting from here on, work the rest of the front panel using hdc in the space between the stitches
Row 3-24: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61sts)

Change to light grey yarn...
Rows 25-56: Continue the pattern above, making sure to change colour yarn by following the graph below. For example, each hdc is a "pixel". Keep in mind that you are working the sweater from the bottom up, so start on the last row first. Click here to download the graph below.

Note: I added the white polka dots to Minnie Mouse's bow after as the colour changes were driving me a little crazy and yarn was getting tangled. However, if you are a pro at graphgans, by all means, give it a try! 

Change to dark grey yarn...
Row 57-72: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61 sts)

Shaping the collar, right side
Row 73: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st for the next 24 sts, leave the rest of the 37 sts unworked (24 sts)
Row 74: Ch2, turn, hdc2tog, then hdc in each st across (23 sts)
Row 75: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across for the next 21 sts, then hdc2tog (22 sts)
Row 76: Ch2, turn, hdc2tog, then hdc in each st across (21 sts)
Row 77: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across for the next 19 sts, then hdc 2tog (20 sts)
Row 78-80: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (20 sts)
Shaping the collar, left side
Starting at row 72 again. Skip the centre 13 sts and rejoin yarn into the next st.
Row 73: Ch2, turn, hdc in the same st and then in each st across (24 sts)
Row 74: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across for the next 22 sts, then hdc2tog (23 sts)
Row 75: Ch2, turn, hdc2tog, then hdc in each st across (22 sts)
Row 76: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across for the next 20 sts, then hdc2tog (21 sts)
Row 77: Ch2, turn, hdc2tog, then hdc in each st across (20 sts)
Row 78-80: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (20 sts)

• Back Panel

Ribbing
Using black yarn... Ch16
Row 1: Sc in second ch from the hook, and then in each st across (15 sts)
Row 2-61: Ch1, turn, sc blo in each st across (15 sts)

At the end of the final row, do not turn. The next row is worked without a turning chain into the side edge of the ribbing we just created, one stitch into each row.
Row 1: Ch1, sc in the same st as the last ribbed row 61, and then in each st across (61 sts)
Row 2: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61 sts)
Starting from here on, work the rest of the back panel using hdc in the space between the stitches
Row 3-24: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61sts)

Change to light grey yarn...
Row 25-57: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61 sts)

Change to dark grey yarn...
Row 58-82: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (61sts)

• Sleeves (x 2)

Ribbed Cuffs
Using dark grey yarn... Ch13
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, and then in each st across (12 sts)
Row 2-30: Ch1, turn, sc blo in each st across (12 sts)

At the end of the final row, do not turn. The next row is worked without a turning chain into the side edge of the ribbing we just created, one stitch into each row.

Row 1: Ch1, sc in the same st as the last ribbed row 30, and then in each st across (30 sts)
Row 2: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (30 sts)
Starting from here on, work the rest of the sleeve using hdc in the space between the stitches
Row 3-8: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (30 sts)
Row 9: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 28 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (32 sts)
Row 10-12: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (32 sts)
Row 13: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 30 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (34 sts)
Row 14-16: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (34 sts)
Row 17: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 32 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (36 sts)
Row 18-20: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (36 sts)
Row 21: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 34 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (38 sts)
Row 22-24: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (38 sts)
Row 25: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 36 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (40 sts)
Row 26-28: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (40 sts)
Row 29: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 38 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (42 sts)
Row 30-32: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (42 sts)
Row 33: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 40 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (44 sts)
Row 34-36: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (44 sts)
Row 37: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 42 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (46 sts)
Row 38-40: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (46 sts)
Row 41: Ch2, turn, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 44 sts, 2 hdc in the last st (48 sts)
Row 42-52: Ch2, turn, hdc in each st across (48 sts)

• Collar