So, I am no master when it comes to creating hair for my amigurumi dolls. So I've been working hard on how to create this tutorial when it comes to putting hair on these amigurumi dolls. At the end of the day, I created a few different versions. While I loved the "playable" hair for the dolls I made my girls, I also really like the neat and tidy never-to-be-moved hair on my own doll. This way, I'll never have a bad hair day.

To create the "playable" hair for the dolls I made my girls, I followed this tutorial by SweetSofties:

This is an amazing tutorial for adding hair to your amigurumi. I particularly liked how she layered the hair so that it doesn't look super bulky but enough hair so that you can style it and play with it once completed.

If you want to add the hair directly onto your doll's head without creating a wig cap, here is a method that doesn't require any knots or sewing.


If you are impatient like I am, and/or would rather be crocheting than cutting up little pieces of yarn for the hair, consider using the method I used for my own doll:

Using your desired hair colour yarn...
Round 1: Magic Circle with a base of 10 sc sts (10 sts)
Round 2: Sc inc in each st around (20 sts)

Now you are going to crochet each strand of hair
Hair Strands: *Ch to the desired length of hair, then slst back to the circle, slst into the next st, and repeat from * until you go around the whole circle.

Now you will have 20 thick strands of hair to work with. You can go ahead and pin this piece to the top of the head and pin down each strand of hair to the base of the head and style as needed.

Once you know where you want the hair to sit, sew down the top of the hair piece, and then sew down each strand of the hair. Alternatively, you can use glue if you are comfortable with that option.

This hair piece likely won't cover all the bald spots on the head so you'll likely need more strands of hair. To add more strands of hair, you can use the following method:

Extra Hair Strands: *Ch to the desired hair length (measuring from the crown of the head), slst back to the beginning and repeat from * until you have enough strands of hair to cover the bald spots
Cut and fasten off.

Then weave through the strands of hair either 1 or 2 at a time depending on how many strands you have. Pull to bunch them together and attach it to the crown of head.

Using the same method, pin and sew down the strands of hair to the base of the head, overlapping the strands from the first hair piece to complete the look of your doll.

Timeline and Links for Mini Mimi's Pattern

Note: links will be added as the information become available.

• Part 1: Materials & Preparation
  Post Date: August 2, 2019
• Part 2: Head
  Post Date: August 5, 2019
• Part 3: Arms and Legs
  Post Date: August 12, 2019
• Part 4: Body
  Post Date: August 19, 2019
• Part 5: Hair
  Post Date: August 26, 2019

Are you working on this Mini Mimi CAL with us? I'd love to see it! Please share with me your progress on Instagram and/or use the hashtags #onceuponacheerio and #minimimiCAL. Or join the Facebook event here.








This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

OMG! You're almost done your doll! The finish line is so close you can almost taste it!

Pattern

• Body

Crocheting using skin colour yarn.
Round 19: 3 sc, sc dec, 10 sc, sc dec, 7 sc (22 sts)
Round 20: Sc in each st around (22 sts)
Round 21: 3 sc, sc dec, 9 sc, sc dec, 6 sc (20 sts)
Round 22: Sc in each st around (20 sts)
Round 23: 3 sc, sc dec, 8 sc, sc dec, 5 sc (18 sts)
Round 24: Sc in each st around (18 sts)

If you are hoping to make your doll pose-able, now would be a good time to insert your pipe-cleaners/wire. I used one folded pipe-cleaner for each leg and then one folded for both of the arms.

Also, don't forget to continue stuffing your doll with poly-fil as you decrease your stitches to the neck.

Round 25: 3 sc, 6 sc around the first arm, 9 sc, 6 sc around the second arm, 6 sc (30 sts)
Round 26: Sc dec in each st around (15 sts)
Round 27: Sc, 7 sc dec (8 sts)
Round 28:  6 sc, sc dec (7 sts)
Round 29-30: Sc in each st around (7 sts)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the head. 

The neck is so long because it needs to provide support for the head.

Thread the yarn tail through the hole on the bottom of the head. Then sew it to the top of the head and then sew it to the neck again to secure it. Do this a few times to make sure your head is secured, then fasten off.

Timeline and Links for Mini Mimi's Pattern

Note: links will be added as the information become available.

• Part 1: Materials & Preparation
  Post Date: August 2, 2019
• Part 2: Head
  Post Date: August 5, 2019
• Part 3: Arms and Legs
  Post Date: August 12, 2019
• Part 4: Body
  Post Date: August 19, 2019
• Part 5: Hair
  Post Date: August 26, 2019

Are you working on this Mini Mimi CAL with us? I'd love to see it! Please share with me your progress on Instagram and/or use the hashtags #onceuponacheerio and #minimimiCAL. Or join the Facebook event here.






This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

Today, we're going to be working on Mini Mimi's arms and legs.

On a side note, I've been suffering from some this mosquito bite on my arm for the last few weeks. I react badly to mosquito bites, but this year has been the worst. I've been putting on some anti-itching cream that's supposed to take away my itch, but there's this rash that just wouldn't go away.

It turns out that I'm allergic to the anti-itching cream. The mosquito bite has already healed, but I have this ugly gigantic rash on my arm that is crazy itchy.

Life is so ironic when you're allergic to your anti-itching cream and makes you itchier than ever. Sadly, before I found out about this, I was lathering on this anti-itch cream on some other mosquito bites on my leg. So now I have to deal with those too.

Summer, right?

OK, enough about my misery. Here's the pattern for Mini Mimi's arms and legs. If you need a reference for a list of materials, you can click here.

Pattern

• Arms

Round 1: Magic Ring with a Base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2-10: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Cut and fasten off. These will be crocheted onto the body later on.

• Legs

Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: [2 sc, sc inc] x 2 times (8 sts)
Round 3-11: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Change to the colour of choice for underwear. 
Round 12: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Cut and fasten off.

I wrote out a tutorial here for getting the perfect stripes using half colour changes so that you can try it out too!



Make a second leg, (but do not cut and fasten this time) end with Ch 4 (with the underwear colour)

Continue working with the underwear colour.
Round 13: 8 sc around the first leg, 4 sc along ch, 8 sc around the second leg, 4 sc along the other side of ch (24 sts)
Round 14: 3 sc, sc inc, 11 sc, sc inc, 8 sc (26 sts)
Round 15-16: Sc in each st around (26 sts)
Round 17: 3 sc, sc dec, 11 sc, sc dec, 8 sc (24 sts)
Round 18: Sc in each st around (24 sts)

You can cut and fasten the underwear colour yarn because you will continue the rest of the doll with skin colour yarn. If you are using the half colour change method, start working the skin colour onto the top of Round 18.

Timeline and Links for Mini Mimi's Pattern

Note: links will be added as the information become available.

• Part 1: Materials & Preparation
  Post Date: August 2, 2019
• Part 2: Head
  Post Date: August 5, 2019
• Part 3: Arms and Legs
  Post Date: August 12, 2019
• Part 4: Body
  Post Date: August 19, 2019
• Part 5: Hair
  Post Date: August 26, 2019

Are you working on this Mini Mimi CAL with us? I'd love to see it! Please share with me your progress on Instagram and/or use the hashtags #onceuponacheerio and #minimimiCAL. Or join the Facebook event here.






This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

I hope you guys all had a fabulous weekend and was enjoy some sunshine. Today is actually a holiday for us in British Columbia (Canada)! If you don't already know, I come from the beautiful city of Vancouver, BC. So if you are a local here, Happy BC Day!

Mondays are usually so... BLAH! But during the month of August, I will be publishing a part of the crochet-along for the Mini Mimi doll base pattern. So at least there's something to look forward to, right?

Anyway, enough nonsense! Are you excited for the first part of this crochet-along? Let's get started, shall we? If you need a reference for a list of materials, you can click here.

Pattern

• Head

Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: sc inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc, sc inc] x 6 times (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc, sc inc, sc] x 6 times (24 sts)
Round 5: [3 sc, sc inc] x 6 (30 sts)
Round 6: [2 sc, sc inc, 2 sc] x 6 (36 sts)
Round 7: [5 sc, sc inc] x 6 times (42 sts)
Round 8: sc in each st around (42 sts)
Round 9: [3sc, sc inc, 3sc] x 6 times (48 sts)
Round 10-17: sc in each st around (48 sts)
Round 18: [4sc, sc dec] x 8 times (40 sts)
Round 19: sc in each st around (40 sts)

Before you start decreasing your stitches and the size of the opening, make sure you put in your safety eyes. I put them between rounds 12 and 13 and they're 10 sts apart.

Stuff the head with poly-fil firmly as you go.

Round 20: [sc, sc dec, sc] x 10 times (30 sts)
Round 21: [sc, sc dec] x 10 times (20 sts)
Round 22: sc dec in each st around (10 sts)
Round 23: sc BLO in each st around (10 sts)
Round 24-28: sc in each st around (10 sts)
Cut and fasten off.

At this point, you might be wondering why the heck is the neck so abnormally long???


Well, What I want you to do next is to push that long tube of a neck into the doll's head. This will create a sturdier and more balanced head on the neck of the doll later on. The head can also pivot and rotate!

It will take some effort to get it in. I injured my nail at one point trying to get that stupid neck inside. Just be careful and work it starting from the base of the stem (closest to the head).



And then at some point you'll get it in...


Woohoo! Celebrate time!

Thanks for joining me on this Part 2 of this Mini Mimi CAL! Stay tuned for Part 3 to come out next Monday! Also, don't forget to share with me your progress. I hope to be able to gather enough photos for a Mini Mimi gallery!

Timeline and Links for Mini Mimi's Pattern

• Part 1: Materials & Preparation
  Post Date: August 2, 2019
• Part 2: Head
  Post Date: August 5, 2019
• Part 3: Arms and Legs
  Post Date: August 12, 2019
• Part 4: Body
  Post Date: August 19, 2019
• Part 5: Hair
  Post Date: August 26, 2019

Are you working on this Mini Mimi CAL with us? I'd love to see it! Please share with me your progress on Instagram and/or use the hashtags #onceuponacheerio and #minimimiCAL. Or join the Facebook event here.






This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

Hello and welcome to my very first Crochet-Along!

I can't wait to share with you this adorable amigurumi doll base pattern with you. The reason why I decided to split this post into multiple posts for a crochet-along is because some parts are more complicated than others.

I wanted to share additional photos of the more complicated parts of this pattern plus I think it would be awesome to see everyone's progress making this doll!

This is a great doll base pattern... for multiple reasons! I love her size, especially the size of her head. I put pipe-cleaners inside her body to help her neck be a bit more sturdy and her limbs pose-able. My girls love her.


More recently, I've been slowly designing and making outfits for Mini Mimi. Soon enough, she'll have a full wardrobe of her own!


Each Monday for the next few Mondays, I will publish a part of the pattern on the blog. Are you interested in making your own Mini Mimi? Join our Mini Mimi Facebook Event and share your progress!

Take some time to gather the materials you need this weekend! Part 2 of the CAL will be published next Monday!

Also, don't forget to share with me your progress on Instagram! Use the hashtags #onceuponacheerio and #minimimiCAL so I can find you!

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

• 1 skein of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Yarn Scents in Chamomile 
• 1 skein of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Yarn in any other colour you want for Mini Mimi's underwear
• 3.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Safety Eyes (I used 6.0 mm)
• Pipe Cleaners / Chenille Stems
• Poly-fil or any polyester stuffing of your choice
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors

Stitches

Yarn Under Single Crochet Stitch

1. Insert hook into the next stitch
2. Put the hook over the yarn (yarn under)
3. Pull the hook with the yarn under it through the stitch
4. With your yarn hand, wrap the yarn from back to front (yarn over) over the hook 
5. Draw the hook with the wrapped yarn through both loops on the hook. 

Timeline and Links for Mini Mimi's Pattern

Note: links will be added as the information become available.

• Part 1: Materials & Preparation
  Post Date: August 2, 2019
• Part 2: Head
  Post Date: August 5, 2019
• Part 3: Arms and Legs
  Post Date: August 12, 2019
• Part 4: Body
  Post Date: August 19, 2019
• Part 5: Hair
  Post Date: August 26, 2019

Are you working on this Mini Mimi CAL with us? I'd love to see it! Please share with me your progress on Instagram and/or use the hashtags #onceuponacheerio and #minimimiCAL. Or join the Facebook event here.






This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!

During the making and designing of this doll, I learned some new techniques! Here I wanted to share with you this new method I learned to change colours. This method works very well if you want to have distinct colour separation.

As you can see in the photo below, the doll on the left (pink underwear) is using the new technique, whereas the doll on the right (purple underwear) is when you work in a new colour in the next row.

The difference is not significant, but you can tell that there is a slight "colour leak/bleed" to the purple underwear as compared to the clean lines on the pink underwear.


To do this technique, we first want to perform a half colour change.

At the end of the last round of Colour A, (in this case, pink), slip stitch into the next stitch and then change your yarn to Colour B (in this case, peach).


Insert your hook into the next stitch.


Wrap yarn around the hook and pull up the first loop in Colour A. You should now have 2 loops on your hook that are two different colours.


Then, wrap the yarn around the hook in the Colour B.


Pull it up through the two existing loops on your hook to finish up the single crochet stitch.

Keep the colour yarn that you are working with on top and keep rotating so that the inside would look like the following.


And then you will finish off your half colour change round!


Join at the very end by just slip stitching into the first st of the round so that it doesn't look like there's an obvious jogged stitch (no photo, sorry!). This does not count as a stitch.

Then for the next round, just continue crocheting in Colour B yarn as you normally would.

If you need more guidance, you can follow the video tutorial here by Club Crochet.


I really liked this method for changing colours and will probably continue to use this technique for my amigurumis in the future! Don't forget to pin it on Pinterest so you can find this post later on!

I have decided to try something new. And no, I don't mean knitting.

Over the last few weeks, I have been working on a doll of my own design. I have tried out many doll patterns by different designers and I learn something through every one of them. I learn what I like and didn't like about each one. Once I got more comfortable, I started combining all the elements that I like into the doll that I am designing!

PS: Please ignore the messy background of the photos. These are extremely raw/unedited photos that I have taken as I was making this doll.

   This post contains affiliate links.


I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to crocheting, and that's hard, because we all know that handmade is never perfect, which is what makes handmade so unique. But it's also driving me a little nuts. So I have actually been doing a lot of making, frogging and then remaking after I find a technique I love.

The doll is taking me a long time (much longer than I thought) because I keep finding new things to improve on and making those changes. I don't have it all down yet, but I couldn't wait to show you the progress that I've been making and then sharing this progress with you.

First of all, finding the right flesh tone has been a challenge. In the past few years, I've almost avoided making dolls because I don't have access to the right shade of skin tone yarn that I thought I needed.


I've been using shades such as "off white" and "cream" and "beige" to help satisfy the needs for when I do make dolls, but I find that my dolls often come out looking so pale and ghostly. I'd prefer it to have a little bit more "blood flow" to them, if that makes any sense.

Many people have suggested to use Caron Simply Soft in Light Country Peach, but it's a bit hard for me to obtain that yarn because they don't sell it at my local Michael's, and I would have to order it in bulk to have it be worthwhile if I order online.

Finally, I came by this Bernat Handicrafter yarn in the colour, Chamomile. As you know, I loved my past experience using Bernat Handicrafter for amigurumis, so I was glad to revisit this yarn. This peach coloured was exactly what I was looking for.


As you can see in the above photo that the doll on the left looks so pale, that you can barely see its white undies. Whereas the flesh tone of the right looks much more "alive".

Aside from searching for the perfect shade of peach for the skin, I also managed to try a new way to crochet. I have noticed many beautiful photos of amigurumi dolls on Instagram have this "x" looking stitch on them. It looked so neat and perfect and I wanted to achieve that look with my amigurumis!

I finally managed to figure out how to make this x-looking single crochet stitches by using the yarn-under method vs the yarn-over method. I plan to make a tutorial for this in the near future, so standby for that.


I initially crocheted the whole doll in the peach coloured yarn, but then I thought it looked too naked. So I decided to crochet it some underwear. Sadly, because the doll was so small, using worsted weight yarn for the under underwear made it look like it was wearing diapers. So again, frogging it and crocheted the underwear using colour changes in the rounds instead.

I also learned a new colour changing method that results in really clean lines. As you can tell by the photo below, I'm going to have to frog the purple one and remake it so that it uses the same colour changing method as the pink one that results in a much cleaner line.



So that's it for now! I thought I'd show you a sneak peek of what I am working on and how I've been trying to improve my amigurumi game. I also wanted to let you all know that this blog is still alive. And while this post may not necessarily be "pin-able" content, it may be interesting for some people to know what I've been up to and all the new stuff I've been learning.

*** Please note that this blog post is the crochet pattern for the crochet pattern for the Candy Heart Pillow. If you are looking for the cross-stitch pattern for adding the letters to these pillows, please click here.

It's still January, but it seems like everyone in the crochet world is getting ready for Valentine's Day already!


These little Valentine's Day treats are well known to many. Even if you've never had one of these candies, you might have seen or heard of them. Especially around Valentine's Day, these sweet treats have become a hallmark of the season. Apparently, they've been around since the early 1900s. Who would have thought! Of course, they've updated their sayings on these confectionaries over the decades to include sayings that are more up to date, so to speak (e.g. "call me", "fax me", "email me", "txt me", etc.).

I had such a hard time choosing what I wanted my pillows to say that I posted a photo of my blank candy heart pillows on Facebook to ask for suggestions! Of course, there are the classic ones like "I love you", "be mine", "hug me", "kiss me", etc. But I wanted something a little more unique. Many people on Facebook started asking me for the pattern for these Candy Heart Pillows, so I figured I better get crackin' and write out the pattern for you can have enough time to make them for Valentine's Day!

Basically, the options for sayings on these candy heart pillows are endless, and that's usually when my "indecisive disorder" starts to kick in. I'll share with you in a later post what I decide to put on my pillows. But here's the crochet pattern for these sweet pillows for now. I would love to know what you decide to put on yours, so don't forget to let me know!! By the way, these pillows measure 12" wide x 10" tall.

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

Stitches & Abbreviations

• st/sts - stitch/stitches
• ch - chain
• sc - single crochet
• sc inc - single crochet increase, work 2 single crochets into the same stitch
• sc dec - single crochet decrease, single crochet 2 stitches together

Notes

• The heart is worked from bottom up
• The finished project measures approximately 12" wide and 10" tall

Pattern

• Heart (x 2)

Row 1: Magic Ring with a base of 2 sc (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc inc (4 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc inc, 2 sc, sc inc (6 sts)
Row 4-25: Ch 1, turn, sc inc, sc in each st across until the second last st, sc inc in the last st (8, 10, 12 sts... etc. until you have 50 sts)

Row 26-30: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (50 sts)
Row 31: Ch 1, turn, sc inc, sc in each st across until the second last st, sc inc in the last st (52 sts)
Row 32-35: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (52 sts)
Row 36: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 48 sc, sc dec (50 sts)
Row 37: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (50 sts)
Row 38: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 46, sc dec (48 sts)
Row 39: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (48 sts)

Now, we'll shape the top of the heart's first "bump". Each bump is separate, so we will only be working the next part up to the middle of the piece.

Row 40: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 20 sc, sc dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked (22 sts)
Row 41: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (22 sts)
Row 42: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 18 sc, sc dec (20 sts)
Row 43: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (20 sts)
Row 44: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 16 sc, sc dec (18 sts)
Row 45: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 14 sc, sc dec (16 sts)
Row 46: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 12 sc, sc dec (14 sts)
Row 47: Ch 1, turn, sc dec, 10 sc, sc dec (12 sts)

Cut and fasten off after the first bump.

For the second bump, join your yarn to the first unworked stitch left from row 39 (see photo below) and repeat rows 40-47 without the first "ch 1, turn" step in row 40. Cut and fasten off.

• Edge / Band

Ch 7
Row 1: Turn sc into the second ch from the hook and across (6 sts)
Row 2-132: Ch 1, turn, sc across in each st (6 sts)
Do NOT cut. 

Assembly

Once you finish crocheting the edge of the pillow, DO NOT cut. Continue by single crocheting the long side of the edge/band around one of the heart panels. I started by crocheting from the middle  (between the two heart bumps) and around the heart counter-clockwise so the stitches would look nicer when looking at the heart straight on. Then single crochet the short sides of the edge/band piece together, and continue single crocheting the second heart panel on the other side of the band. Remember to stuff your pillow before closing!




Did you make your own Candy Heart Pillow? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.


You can turn them into the classic Valentine's Candy Heart treats by cross-stitching your very own saying on these candy hearts! Find the cross stitch letters here.

Check out mine below!

So if you had a chance to see my crochet Christmas tree, you'll notice that I have some "flat" Christmas baubles on there. I didn't want to get overly 3D since my Christmas tree was flat.


I thought I might share the crochet pattern for my "flatland" Christmas Baubles in case you might be interested in making some yourself! I'm sure they'll work well on 3D Christmas trees as well! They're also quick to make. I trust that you can make about half a dozen in an afternoon/evening sitting.



So if your tree is looking a little bare this year, consider some of these flatland Christmas baubles! They look great on 3D Christmas trees too. I figured I should publish the pattern before Christmas is over. So let's get to it!

What You Need / Materials

### Most of these items can be purchased through our affiliate links. Purchasing items through these links will not cost you any extra money. Please see our disclosure policy for more details.

• Worsted Weight Yarn in a variety of colours and Grey (for the bauble cap)
• 4.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations

• st/sts - stitch/stitches
• ch - chain
• sc - single crochet
• sc inc - single crochet increase, work 2 single crochets into the same stitch

Pattern

Round 1: Magic Ring with a base of 7 sc (7sts)
Round 2: Sc inc in each st around (14 sts)
Round 3: [sc, sc inc] x 7 times (21 sts)
Round 4: [2 sc, sc inc] x 7 times (28 sts)
Round 5: [3 sc, sc inc] x 7 times (35 sts)

Fasten Off Invisibly:
Cut yarn, pull the yarn tail through the last stitch completely and thread yarn tail onto the yarn/tapestry needle. Skip one stitch then insert the needle into the next stitch in the same way you would your crochet hook (see photo 1). Next insert needle back into the same stitch that the yarn tail is coming from but into the back loop only (see photo 2). Pull gently (see photo 3) - this creates a faux stitch that looks like the skipped stitch. Weave the tail into the wrong side before trimming. 



Join the Grey yarn with a Standing Single Crochet to make the Bauble Cap:
Make a slip knot onto the hook then insert the hook into indicated stitch (see photo 1). Wrap yarn around hook and pull loop through (see photo 2), wrap yarn around hook and pull through 2 loops to complete the single crochet (see photo 3).



Row 1: 5 sc (5 sts, see photo 4)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 5 sc (5 sts)

Make two pieces for the front and back. Then put the two pieces together with the wrong side facing each other. Single crochet along the edges changing colours when needed to, stuff with a little bit of leftover yarn ends or polyfill stuffing prior to closing.


For a list of all the patterns I used for my crocheted Christmas Tree, check out this post.

Did you make your own Flatland Christmas Bauble Ornaments? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.







This is an original pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!